Chengdu: Gateway to the Tibetan world
12 October 2020
Each time I catch a glimpse of snow-capped mountains from my apartment in Chengdu, I am reminded of how close I am to the foothills of the Tibetan plateau. Adjacent to the Tibetan Autonomous Region, Sichuan has the largest Tibetan population outside the TAR. So it’s not surprising that Tibetans form the largest ethnic minority group in Sichuan’s capital, Chengdu, with estimates of around 200,000 living in the city. In fact, Chengdu remains a major transit point between the Tibetan regions and the Central Plains.
Tibetans in Chengdu come from all over the Tibetan plateau, not just from Sichuan province. They find a well-established community and social services that offer social and cultural support. Credit: DFAT
The main Tibetan quarter in Chengdu is around Wuhouci, which lies on the centuries-old overland route from the Tibetan highlands to Chengdu. Here, you can’t miss the sight of Tibetan monks in burgundy robes, and women in traditional dress, which gives a clue as to the region they hail from. You’ll see vibrant streets lined with Tibetan signage and prayer flags and restaurants, teahouses, and shops selling Buddhist ritual items, traditional clothes, Tibetan language books, and delicacies such as dried yak meat.
The Wuhouci quarter in Chengdu has a range of shops selling Tibetan Buddhist ritual items, traditional clothes, household items, and Tibetan language books. Credit: DFAT
In addition to Wuhouci, Tibetans also gather in a smaller quarter around Jinyu Street in Jinniu district, as well as residing in Wenjiang, Shuangliu, Dujiangyan and Pidu in Chengdu’s outskirts.
In olden days, Tibetans who made the trek from the plateau to Chengdu were greeted by the spectacular Red Archway (红牌楼 Hongpailou), built to welcome them into the city. The archway has long collapsed but this new red structure was erected to signify its cultural significance. Credit: Ning Xueyu
For many Tibetans, Chengdu provides a cosmopolitan environment to access consumer goods and health care, seek employment, and education, including in the Tibetan language. For many elderly Tibetans and retirees, Chengdu affords a respite from the much colder winter in the highlands. The representative office of the TAR is located in Wuhouci, and nearby is the Southwest Minzu University focused on education for minority groups, including Tibetan studies. For many foreign visitors, Chengdu’s Tibetan quarter adds another dimension to their understanding of the political and religious complexities surrounding Tibetan issues in China.
Young Tibetans impress me on their ability to take advantage of Chengdu’s rich offerings for professional advancement and personal growth. Coming to a big competitive city like Chengdu after growing up in remote highland communities isn’t without challenges.
Young Tibetans have set up social enterprises such as this one making yak milk soap for online sales throughout the country. Credit: Danma
However, I see many young Tibetans embracing Chengdu’s broader inclusive culture and growing international feel, while meeting other Tibetans from various parts of the country. Young Tibetan entrepreneurs set up businesses, often promoting Tibetan products and services, including with social development objectives. Aspiring Tibetan singers descend on Chengdu with their songs of nomadic lives and boundless grasslands, performing to urban audiences, and composing new songs and even experimenting with hip hop music. I often see them gathering in bars and coffee shops, writing songs and strumming on guitars.
Chengdu has become an important social, cultural, linguistic and economic centre for Tibetans. At the same time, Tibetans are contributing directly to the city’s dynamism and complexity. In the years to come, greater connectivity with Tibetan regions through the government’s extensive transport infrastructure projects will likely see even greater interaction.
On a clear day, Chengdu is graced with the sight of Mount Gongga rising majestically from the foothills of the Tibetan plateau. Credit: DFAT
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